Types of Chemical Peel

Chemical peeling involves applying a chemical solution to the skin to remove its outer layers. How much skin they remove and how deep they penetrate will depend on the type of peel used, its strength and how long it is left on. There are three types of peel: superficial, medium and deep. These have varying percentages of active ingredients and different PH levels. The percentage of a peel just indicates how much of the peeling agent is contained in the peel so a 15% glycolic acid peel has less glycolic acid than a 50% glycolic acid peel. It is a common misconception that if a peel has a high percentage it means it cannot be done in a beauty salon however although this is not true, there is a difference between peels you can have at the beauticians and those you can have in a medi-spa or clinic. What really matters when it comes to peels is their PH level. This indicates how deep the peel will penetrate into your skin and how much irritation you will get. The thing to remember is; the lower the PH, the deeper the peel. Anything with a PH of less than 2.5 should be done by a doctor or nurse and if it has a PH of 1 only a doctor or surgeon. Beauty therapists cannot legally do anything lower than a 2.5. Peels with a PH of 3 are what you would usually find in a beauty salon.

Superficial/Light Peels

Superficial or light peels are the gentlest type of peels available and one of the true ‘lunchtime’ aesthetic procedures. They only remove the top layer of the skin, known as the epidermis, and can give your skin and instantly brighter look as well as a smoother, more even texture. They can be used to minimise fine lines and wrinkles, sun damage, mild acne scarring, age spots and dry or flaking skin. They are usually made from alpha hydroxy or beta hydroxy acids, known as AHAs and BHAs and include glycolic acid, lactic acid and salicylic acid. Nowadays it is also common to use fruit enzymes and acids from natural sources such as pumpkins, cranberries and pineapples. There are now advanced peeling systems, which offer the kind of results you would expect from a medium depth peel but with the side effects of a superficial peel. These types of peels use active ingredients to penetrate and deliver anti-oxidants and vitamins deep into the skin encouraging the new cells to grow stronger and healthier. A course of between six and 10 treatments is usually recommended to achieve the best results. Superficial peels do not hurt, you only feel a slight tingling or stinging sensation, and have virtually no recovery time. You can be a little bit pink afterwards and may get some mild flaking of the skin but this can be disguised with make-up. With a superficial peel you would be able to return to work or go out straight afterwards and no one would know you had had the treatment done.

Medium Depth Peels

Medium depth peels give more dramatic results than superficial peels. Usually derived from TCA (trichloroacetic acid), they penetrate deeper in to the skin and can be used to treat sun damage, pigmentation and wrinkles. The downside of medium peels is that you will have a longer recovery and more side effects. You may also feel more discomfort during the treatment than you would with a superficial peel including burning and stinging, which can last for 30 minutes to an hour after treatment. You may want to hide yourself away for a few days following a medium peel as your face can become swollen, pink and itchy following treatment and you will get more ‘peeling’ of the skin than you would with a superficial peel. You can also get patches of brown and white skin on your face during the healing process and in rare cases you can get scarring from medium depth peels. Generally recovery takes around a week but your skin can be a little bit pink for up to six weeks afterwards.

Deep Peels

Deep peels are the strongest type of chemical peel available and can achieve amazing results for sun damage, scarring and deep lines and wrinkles but be prepared to look quite scary after your treatment. They usually use carbolic acid (Phenol peels) or high strength TCA to penetrate the deeper layers, or dermal layers, of the skin. However this type of peel is painful and can take months to fully recover from. Your skin will be very red and feel almost like it is sun burnt after the procedure. Although you will heal in one to three weeks the redness can still be visible for months after the treatment but the results of the peel are long lasting. Be warned you could also feel quite unwell after a Phenol peel and may need to be sedated during the treatment. The side effects of deep peels can look quite horrific. Your whole face will be swollen for a couple of days and will then scab. You will also get a lot of peeling and your skin may be quite itchy. For some people it can take up to two weeks before they want to go out in public. The most common problem associated with deep peels is patches of white or bleached looking skin, known as hypopigmentation, which can be permanent. There is also a risk of scarring. Because of the risks associated with Phenol peels it is incredibly important you find an experienced dermatologist or plastic surgeon to carry out the treatment.

Peeling Agents

Glycolic acid is the most common peeling agent. It comes in different strengths (30% – 90%) and different pH levels (levels of acidity) which will determine how deep it penetrates and how much peeling you get. It can be used to treat fine lines and wrinkles, sun damage, improvement of skin texture, skin brightening.

Salicylic acid is unique amongst the hydroxy acids in that it can penetrate deeper into the oil glands causing exfoliation even in the oily areas of the face and scalp, making it ideal for treating acne and oily skin.

Lactic acid occurs naturally in human skin and is also found in milk. It is less irritating than other AHAs and has a natural moisturising effect on the skin. It is ideal for skin brightening. It can be used to treat pigmentation, dry or dehydrated skin, sensitive skin, rosacea.

Fruit enzymes can also be used as peeling agents. Commonly used fruit enzymes come from fruits such as papaya, pineapple, pumpkin and cranberry. They are anti?bacterial, promote cell renewal and can digest oil from spots (sebum) and dead skin. They can be used to treat acne, rosacea, dehydrated skin, hyper?reactive and sensitive skin.

Tartaric acid comes from grapes and is a less irritating alternative to glycolic acid for a milder exfoliation of the skin. It can also help increase hydration. It can be used to treat acne, photo damage, rosacea, superficial pigmentation, eczema.

Malic acid comes from apples and pears and like tartaric acid is a weaker AHA than glycolic acid. It can be used to treat acne, photo damage, rosacea, superficial pigmentation, eczema. Citric acid comes from lemons and oranges and works in the same way as tartaric and malic acids. It can be used to treat acne, photo damage, rosacea, superficial pigmentation, eczema.

TCA or trichloroacetic acid is a stronger acid than glycolic. It penetrates deeper into the skin and is usually used for medium depth or deep peels although it can be used at a lower concentration in combination with other acids for a milder peel. It can be used to treat skin tightening, fine lines and wrinkles, acne scars, large pores, hyperpigmentation.

Carbolic acid is found in Phenol peels and is the strongest type of peeling agent available. It is used for very deep peels. It can be used to treat deep lines and wrinkles, scarring, severe sun damage.