Treatment Of Hyperpigmentation
By Olga Achou
In the aesthetic field one of the most common disorders is hyperpigmentation (melasma and postinflammatory discoloration).
And it affects nearly 100% of all individuals by the age 40-50 being one the hallmarks of ageing skin.
The treatment of these disorders is more than challenging regardless whether the issue is to find working agents on a cosmeceutical basis or medical treatment.
There are two main routs to skin whitening: Direct method by applying melanin suppressing topical products (hydroquinone, arbutin, dipotassium glycyrrhizate, kojic acid, licorice root extract, retinol, salicylic, glycolic and lactobiotic acids , hexylresorcinol).
Or a indirect methods via removing of top lays of the skin ( IPL, Fractional laser, facial peelings, dermabrasion).
Despite the controversary about hydroquinone , typically prescribed at 4% concentration, is highly effective and still the most commonly used. In addition to that, topical HQ remains the most effective agent for the treatment of melasma especially in dark-skinned people with rare side effect.
Reviewing literature and regarding my own experience, the combination of HQ 4% with high concentration of other working agents such as Vitamin C, Salicylic Acid as well as Vitamin A Acid, Kojic Acid still remains very efficacious.
Studies have shown that the combination of HQ with Retinol (tretinoin 0,5 – 1%) is the most effective. Because retinoids provide significant anti-aging benefits by increasing skin thickness and increasing cellular turnover, promoting healthier skin.
Typically, however, due to the irritation associated with both HQ and Tretinoin (redness ,dryness, flaking) these combination products require the use of a steroids.
Also the use of anti-oxidants and anti-inflammatory agents in combination with HQ and Tretinoin decreases the irritation (Vitamins C,A, Ferulic acid, plant derived molecules).
Many newer non-qydroquinone technologies combine several products to improve efficacy as combination technologies tend to be more effective than single technology solution. But only few of them can address the multiple stages of melanin production cycle in order to suppress these cells.
Newest and latest innovative ingredients are for sure the Peptides; Peptides are made up of individual amino acids that are linked together like a pearl necklace.
Biomimetic Peptides are identical to the skin’s peptides, and are acting on the physiological mechanisms of the skin with a high specificity.
One important oligopeptide to mention for skin lightening is one which blocks melanin stimulating hormone (a-MSH).
CONCLUSION
There are so many new promising active agents which could overcome the controversy of Hydroquinone or at last act in complimentary beneficial way for de-pigmentation. According to many years of experience, the best result can be achieved and maintained only when people use combination of different ingredients to target all stages of Melanin cells production.
